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Rio Fuy Kayakers “Sleep with the Devil”

My third article appeared yesterday in The Santiago Times! Click here to read it.

I spent a two weeks over Christmas in the beautiful Futaleufu region “researching”. Here I am, hard at work, getting ready to raft the famous “bridge to bridge” section of the even more famous Futaleufu River in southern Chile. Also pictured is Josh Lowry, a veteran kayaker and raft guide who owns and operates the Futaleufu Explore raft company.

At the moment, I’m still in Puerto Natales, trying to work on an article about the forest fire in the Torres del Paine National Park. I know, Yoda said, “There is no try. Only do.” But damnit, Yoda, it is slow going down here.

Lack of clear information, lack of organization within the park management, and my own struggle with writer’s block and motivation are complicating things. Perhaps it was a bit too ambitious to tackle a second huge issue, such as Chile’s dysfunctional national park management, before I had a good handle on the hydroelectric debate.

If you know me, you know I don’t give up easily, even when there’s a mountain of evidence to demonstrate that I’ve bit off more than I can chew. The ego is a powerful thing. In some of my first proposals to Spot.Us and other publications about the HidroAysen issue, I wrote, “How can Chile and the world balance conservation and development?” But I’m learning more about my own personal balance, and how difficult it can be to hear and honor the needs of my soul and body when my ego berates me for being a quitter, or pressures me to meet the demands of others before my own.

How does one recognize the difference between laziness and healing rest? Between a healthy challenge and forcing something? Between knowing when to quit and giving up because it’s too hard? These are the thoughts that occupy my mind as I sit in the window seat at the Erratic Rock hostel, watching the street dogs conduct business in the park and the weather shift from sun to rain to wind to clouds every ten minutes. I worked here four years ago. It’s good to be back with family, especially as I struggle my way through my latest existential mini-crisis.

Less than 20 days to reach my $2,000 goal! The good – GREAT – news is that I only need $230.50! Thank you to Kelsey Sobel, Kevin Forti, Diana Huffaker, Sean D’Ambois, Heather Thompson, Adam Clements, Anne Jander, Lydia Smith, Chelsea Gustafson, Sandy Turay, Michael Stafford, Elizabeth Dieter, Anja Togl, Sian Gaetano, Shanti Rade, Yasmin Kelsall, Sean Kupervich, and Shaina Maytum for their generous donations and taking the time to fill out a survey for free credits! Much love to all of you.

Fund my work for FREE!

Did you know: you can fund my work in Chile without paying a dime?

It’s easy. Click on the widget to the left. See it? That one that says “Hydroelectric Dams Proposed in Patagonia…” Click there to go straight to my pitch on Spot.Us, where you’ll see a little button that says “FREE CREDITS”.

Then, all you have [...]

Torres del Paine is Burning

And I, too, feel a fire under me. I woke up this morning in Coyhaique, Chile, the capital of the Aysen Region. I’d slept later than I’d wanted. It stays light here until 11 pm, and I’m having a hard time remembering to go to bed at a decent hour. I woke this morning with a [...]

Who got published? I got published!

Front page of the Santiago Times today featured a story by an up-and-coming young writer: ME!

Check out the story on the Chilean Cyclists Pedaling Through Patagonia.

Yippeeeeeee!!!!!!!

Please excuse the momentary inarticulateness. I’ll be back to crafting good sentences tomorrow. Steve (publisher) wants me to write another article for Friday’s paper, this one about the Chilean Supreme Court’s [...]

Santiago Times to Publish my work on HidroAysen!

Twenty kilometers south of Puerto Montt, Steve Anderson runs a sizable camping ground, WWOOFing operation, and the Patagonia branch of The Santiago Times, Chile’s first English-language newspaper. His office is a small, many windowed tower at the top of his house, with an uninterrupted view of a sheltered, salty bay. Buoys [...]

Welcome to Patagonia, they chortled.

I set up my tent to a chorus of laughter. Chuckles turned to cackles, then built into contagious, breathless hilarity that shook the trees and rattled the windows of the houses around the lawn. It spread across the street, into the next yard, until the entire flock of black-winged jesters exploded from the tall pines, struggling [...]

Finish this sentence: All work and no play…

…make Jack Nicholson chase after his family with an axe through a topiary garden. Right?

Santiago isn’t exactly in the running for the setting of “The Shining II”, but I was definitely beginning to feel twitchy and cooped up. No wonder, with this as my most frequent work space:

Working through my pile of research in my [...]

What’s a Couple More Dams, Anyway?

Today, without meaning to, I walked straight into the heart of the Chilean Patagonia. I found it at a bar, El Clinic, near the Belles Artes metro stop. It doesn’t live there, obviously, but that’s where we happened to meet. I’ve spent the past week in Santiago poring through various media, trying [...]

Images from America’s Past

Gray skies gradually succumbed to the spirit of honor, gaiety, and remembrance at the 2011 American Indian Association of Florida, Inc. Powwow. By early afternoon the sun had emerged to cast its gentle, fall warmth on the gathering. I can’t duplicate the melody of bells jangling, feathers swooping, streamers flying, drums reverberating, and singers chanting here, [...]

Crowd-Support

5:30 pm. I stood on the platform of the Santiago metro. No, not stood, sagged. Eyelids blinked in slow motion. Shoulders protested the weight of my bag. I was exhausted. The day’s interviews (two: one with a representative from Ecosistemas, and the second with a spokesman for Costa Carrera) and the wealth of information they’d provided [...]