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Ríos to Rivers, or Susan’s Next Scheme to Save the World

Did I ever tell you the story of the month that I spent in Cochrane, Chile, under the tutelage of Roberto and his kayaking club, Los Escualos? The month I spent wearing a patched wetsuit and fraying dry top, with my legs wedged into a battered kayak, learning to do an Eskimo roll? The month […]

thar she blows

WHALES. The whales have arrived!!

At 2:30 this morning I was sitting on the frozen beach of Hut Point (on the edge of town), next to the huge, Swedish icebreaker that is moored at the ice pier in the harbor. I’d taken a nap after work, intending to sleep for only an hour…and woke up […]

where is my mind?

In the film “Memento”, Guy Pearce plays a character with no short term memory. He carries a Polaroid camera and makes notes on the photos in order to fill in the gaps in his memory. “This is my car” one says. Another: “This is where I live.” I need to start doing this. I have…no […]

this place

When I speak of my life here, “here” – Antarctica, McMurdo – is simply “this place.” This Place. It’s an enigmatic title. Vague. Simple, colorless words that fall flat, providing no descriptive imagery, no information. And yet it’s the only phrase that works – it’s general enough, bland enough to encompass the space that is…this […]

Recent Events That Have Helped Me To Remember Why It’s Exciting To Live In Freaking Antarctica

#1 – Driving in Condition 2 weather! *Condition 2: “weather conditions when any one or all of these conditions exist – wind speed is greater than 48 knots (55mph), temperature is below -75 F (-59C), visibility is less than 1/4 mile” (condition 3 is the designation for normal weather; condition 1 is the most extreme).