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Welcome to Patagonia, they chortled.

I set up my tent to a chorus of laughter. Chuckles turned to cackles, then built into contagious, breathless hilarity that shook the trees and rattled the windows of the houses around the lawn. It spread across the street, into the next yard, until the entire flock of black-winged jesters exploded from the tall pines, […]

where is my mind?

In the film “Memento”, Guy Pearce plays a character with no short term memory. He carries a Polaroid camera and makes notes on the photos in order to fill in the gaps in his memory. “This is my car” one says. Another: “This is where I live.” I need to start doing this. I have…no […]

it’s beginning to look a lot like christmas…

…if by Christmas you mean giant wooden candy canes and penguins wearing Santa hats hung on utility poles over rivers of mud under the blinding sun. Welcome to the land of the Anti-Santa, who steals toys from the good children and delivers them to the bad ones; where snow melts instead of accumulating and the […]

sick day(s)

I have the Crud. It’s the McMurdo bane: a common cold on steroids. Sneezy, feverish, achy, with watery eyes and nose that alternates between stuffiness and running. I’m on day five, and the bastard just won’t quit. The upside is that I’ve gotten a solid three and a half days off of work during which […]

this place

When I speak of my life here, “here” – Antarctica, McMurdo – is simply “this place.” This Place. It’s an enigmatic title. Vague. Simple, colorless words that fall flat, providing no descriptive imagery, no information. And yet it’s the only phrase that works – it’s general enough, bland enough to encompass the space that is…this […]